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The questions people ask
before they borrow.

Deposits, rates, what a lender checks and when refinancing stacks up — four short reads written for New Zealand borrowers, without the jargon.

01 — Deposits

How much deposit do you actually need?

Twenty per cent is the number everyone quotes. It is a benchmark rather than a rule, and plenty of people buy with less.

What changes below 20% is the cost and the scrutiny. Lenders generally add a low-equity margin or fee, which sits on top of your rate for as long as your equity stays under the threshold, and they look harder at income and account conduct. Some lending is set aside for buyers with smaller deposits, so timing matters as much as the percentage.

A few things change the picture:

  • New builds are often treated differently from existing homes, and can need a smaller deposit.
  • A KiwiSaver first-home withdrawal and the money you have saved are usually counted together.
  • Gifted deposits are accepted by most lenders, but they will want it documented properly.

Rather than saving to a number you read online, get your position checked against what lenders are actually doing this month. It is a short conversation.

02 — Fixed or floating

Fixed, floating, or a bit of both

Fixing buys certainty: your rate and your repayment stay put for the term you choose. Floating buys flexibility: the rate moves, but you can make lump-sum repayments or pay the loan off without a break cost.

The trade-off is the break cost. If you fix and then need out early — because you sell, refinance or want to repay a large amount — the lender can charge to unwind it, and on a long fixed term that figure can be substantial.

Splitting the loan

Most people do not have to choose. Splitting a loan across two or three portions with different end dates means only part of your lending comes up for renewal at once, and a floating portion gives you somewhere to put extra repayments.

What actually decides it is your next few years, not the rate sheet: whether you expect a lump sum, whether you might sell, and how much a change in repayment would hurt. Those are the questions worth answering before you pick a term.

03 — What lenders check

What a lender checks before they say yes

An application is assessed on four things. Knowing which one is weak is usually the difference between a fast approval and a decline.

Servicing
Can you afford the repayments if rates rise? Lenders test your income against a rate well above the one you would actually pay, and they include your other commitments — personal loans, buy now pay later, and the limit on your credit card rather than the balance.
Deposit or equity
How much of the purchase you are funding yourself, and where it came from.
Credit history
Defaults and arrears matter, but so does the number of recent credit enquiries. Applying at several lenders at once leaves a mark on your file.
Account conduct
Usually three months of statements from the account your income is paid into. Unarranged overdrafts, dishonoured payments and heavy gambling transactions all get noticed.

Three of those four can be improved in a few months. If the numbers do not work yet, the useful answer is which one to fix and roughly how long it takes — not another enquiry on your credit file.

04 — Refinancing

When refinancing is worth the break fee

Moving lenders mid-term is not free. Breaking a fixed rate carries a cost, and the new lender will want a fresh application. Sometimes it still stacks up.

It is usually worth running the numbers when:

  • There is a real gap between your rate and what is available, with enough of your term left for the saving to outweigh the break cost.
  • You need a different structure — splitting the loan, adding a revolving portion, or changing the term.
  • You want to release equity for a renovation or a deposit on another property.
  • You are consolidating higher-rate debt into the mortgage, and you will not simply rebuild it.

It is usually not worth it for a small rate difference late in a fixed term, or if your income or credit position has weakened since you last applied — a fresh enquiry and a decline elsewhere leave you worse off than the rate you already have.

Ask your current lender for the break cost in writing. It is a specific figure on a specific day, and everything else is guesswork until you have it.

General information, not advice. These articles describe how home lending generally works in New Zealand. They do not take your circumstances into account and they are not regulated financial advice. Lending criteria, rates and thresholds change — check your own position before you act on any of it.

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